BallAquatics
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For the first 7 to 10 days I feed green water/infusoria & Golden Pearls 5-50 micron size. After that it’s fresh bbs, worms (ie micro, walter, etc) and Golden Pearls.
Dennis
Welcome to the forum Steeler07! CPD’s come from shallow, still water ponds. They don’t really like lots of water flow like the danios that come from river or stream environments.
Best of luck with your new CPD’s!
Dennis
@shift wrote:
It’s like he got squished in a door and he curves to the side.
Sounds like more than just a swim bladder issue….. More like a deformity, or a birth defect.
Dennis
I’ve never had problems with Danio margaritatus being jumpers. With Danio dangila, Danio choprae, and Danio feegradei you need good tops as these are all jumpers.
Dennis
@plantednano wrote:
Do you think this will overload the system? Total of 7 or 8 Sundadanios, 5 CPDs and 3 Red Chilli Shrimps.
Honestly, I don’t subscribe to the 1 inch per gallon or 3 liters per cm of fish rules. Monitor your water and simply adjust your water changes accordingly. Your live plants will help to keep the water clean too.
Dennis
That’s an interesting question. I would think that any eggs that fall below the thick cover would be protected from the parents. You will have to keep us posted as to how this works out.
Dennis
Hi plantednano, welcome to the forum! Very nice looking tank you have there. I would keep a close eye on the water parameters since you have added 10 new fish in just the last several days. Your bio-filtration my not be able to keep up with the load initially.
Dennis
I use either the generic black gravel from Wal-Mart or in a few tanks black “Tahitian Moon” sand. I don’t grow anything but easy “low light” plants though. No ferts or additives… I hate to put chemicals into my tanks.
Dennis
I don’t know what you mean by brand new tank. I quarantine new fish from my current fish stocks. Actually, since I keep most of my fish in species tanks, I have an empty tank waiting for the new fish and that’s where they go. If they are carrying anything, they don’t have the chance to infect any of my other fish.
Dennis
I keep around 20 different types of danio and most of them are in species tanks. I would think CPD’s would work well with any small non-aggressive fish.
They are adult shrimp safe, but they will eat all the baby shrimp they can find… at least mine always did when I was keeping shrimp.
Dennis
I use HMF filters in all my big tanks…..
http://www.swisstropicals.com/Poret%20Hamburg%20Mattenfilter%20Kits.html
Dennis
@Piotr K. wrote:
These numbers are for one breeder tank per one week, right?
Hi Piotr, yes that’s for one breeder tank per one week set-up.
@Piotr K. wrote:
Aha, and one more question – I see you have D. erythromicron as your avatar. Do you breed them, too? If yes, what’s the growing speed of the fry, comparing to CPDs? My experience is they grow two times slower than CPDs.
Yes, my avatar is Danio erythromicron. I do have a breeding group of these, but I don’t raise them in the quantities that I raise CPD. I always think that it seems as though both of these fish grow slowly, but I think it’s just a matter of perception. They are small as adults so they don’t appear to grow in size like fry from larger fish do. If you think about it thought, they are sexually mature at 12 weeks old so really they are growing very fast… they just never get very big!
You are correct though, I think the D. erythromicron grow slower than CPD’s.
Dennis
@Piotr K. wrote:
Dennis, what do you do with the fry after removing the parents? I mean, do you keep the fry in the tank, feeding them and waiting till they grow to ready-to-sell size, or you remove the fry to another tank?
I keep them in the breeder tanks for the first 30 days. There are several reasons for this. 1) It’s very easy for the fry to find food in a small tank. They don’t need to go searching as they would in a larger tank. It’s an “old school” breeder trick. 2) I like to keep track of my spawns and it’s all but impossible if you dump fry from different spawns into a single large tank. 3) I find it much easier to closely monitor small tanks. Water quality, feedings , etc.
At the end of 30 days, I move them into a 20 US gallon long tank to grow-out for another 8 weeks before selling them on. If it’s a large spawn, I’ll split them up into several tanks. I don’t like to put more than about 65 in a single 20 gallon tank.
For each group of breeders I use 5 breeder set-ups. This way at the end of the fifth week the fry in set-up #1 are moving to a grow-out tank and the breeders are moving back into set-up #1 to start the cycle over again. I’m not on a scale like a commercial breeder, but I normally sell on 300 to 500 CPD a year.
@Piotr K. wrote:
Dennis, did you notice any changes in the eggs/fry number as the parents become older? And what’s your average fry number in the setup 5,5 US gallon with 1m+3f?
I only use breeders for a single season and then retire them so I can’t talk about a decline in egg production. I have noticed that young breeders usually start out producing fewer eggs at first and build up as they get older. Food has a lot to do with egg production too. Feed them live foods, bbs, daphnia, white worms, etc. and you will get better production.
First time breeders usually produce 15 to 25 fry per set-up and top out at 75 to 100 per set-up. If I had to pick an average I say 50 to 65 fry. That’s how I come to use 20 gallon grow-out tanks. If they averaged more I would have went with 40 gallon grow-outs.
It’s very easy to judge how you are doing with a batch of fry. By 30 days, they should start looking like tiny adults in body shape. By 60 days, they should be showing color and around 1/2 inches long. By 90 days, they should be breeding size and the females getting round with their first eggs. If they don’t meet these criteria, you need more and/or better food, more and/or larger frequent water changes.
Here’s a photo of a typical breeder set-up…..
Dennis
