BallAquatics
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
BallAquatics
ParticipantThis photo is of Danio tinwini fry, but at this age they could just as well be CPD fry…
The worms you mention are probably planaria. If you look real close do the have triangular shaped heads?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planarian
Dennis
BallAquatics
Participant@Pushkatu wrote:
If you don’t mind me asking, what fish is that from your avatar?
Danio erythromicron – http://www.danios.info/fish/erythromicron.aspx
Dennis
BallAquatics
ParticipantHi Marius, welcome to the forum! Some nice looking tanks you’ve got there!
I might be a little biased, but I think we’ve got the best photos and info about these fish that you’ll find anywhere.
Dennis
BallAquatics
ParticipantBest of luck with your project Dave! I’ll be watching your thread for updates.
Dennis
BallAquatics
Participant@mostlydave wrote:
Would mind describing your 20 gallon grow out tanks? What do you use for filtration, lighting and canopies?
They are very basic set-ups, with one or two sponge filters and some black gravel for substrate. I always have some live plants, vals, moss, crypts, etc. For lighting I use DIY canopies with daylight CF bulbs.
Here’s a short video showing some fish in one of the grow-out tanks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s7qOdGTKfYo&feature=mfu_in_order&list=ULHere’s a link on my DIY lighting.
http://arizonainverts.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2113@mostlydave wrote:
Is there any significant advantage to using long tanks as opposed to regular?
There are several advantages to long tanks. They provide more surface area for a given volume of water. As CPD’s typically occupy the bottom area of the tank, width as opposed to vertical height is a good thing too. With the extra width, I think you can house more fish in the same volume of water without making them feel crowded.
Dennis
BallAquatics
Participant@mostlydave wrote:
One more question, once I get my culture going how is it sustained? Do you just add new water to replace what is used? How long will a culture last?
I’ve kept cultures going for several years.
I would replace the water removed from this culture with tank water from fry grow-out tanks during water changes. It always seemed to have enough nutrient to feed the culture well and keep the water nice and green. I had lots of daphnia back when I had this culture going and used to pull off 2 gallons a day just to feed the daphnia.
Dennis
BallAquatics
ParticipantHi Ollie,
I hatch a gram of brine shrimp eggs daily. That’s around 225,000 baby brine shrimp. With that number of baby brine shrimp, I can feed several hundred fry and adult CPD’s.
I get my eggs and hatching supplies from Brine Shrimp Direct. They have lots of good information on their WEB site…
http://www.brineshrimpdirect.com/Frequently-Asked-Questions-c123.html
A very Happy 2012 to you and your family as well!
Dennis
January 9, 2012 at 1:31 am in reply to: Should I separate the males and females prior to breeding? #15094BallAquatics
ParticipantI have in the past separated CPD’s prior to spawning. It mainly keeps them from spawning before you want and allows the females to build up a good supply of eggs. That said, it’s not something that I usually make a habit of. Like MChambers said, “Separating them with a divider might increase the output, I suppose, but CPDs don’t seem to need much encouragement to reproduce.”
If you decide to separate your fish, I’d put the females into the breeding tank and add the male later. I have no experience with males developing territories or even being aggressive towards each other. I currently have a 10 gallon tank with about a dozen mature males and every one is getting along fine. If I were to add a female to the tank, she would receive quite a lot of attention, but the males wouldn’t fight over her.
Dennis
BallAquatics
ParticipantI’ve never noticed the level of lighting having much difference. I’ve had successful spawns in tanks with direct lighting and also tanks that only receive in-direct room lighting.
As for the methylene blue, I’ve never used it in a CPD breeding set-up. Very rarely I might use some dye in a bare-bottom breeding set-up for egg scattering Danios.
Lastly, I don’t heat any of my CPD breeder set-ups. My fish stop spawning when the temperature reaches the high 70’s, lower 80’s. I’ve got some fish, (thanks AquaGirl!), that are not affected by warmer water temperatures, but I haven’t set them up for spawning yet.
Dennis
BallAquatics
ParticipantOptimal temperature for your culture would be in the 70 to 78F range with around 16 hours of full-spectrum lighting. For the past several years I’ve been using screw-in compact fluorescent lights with good success. The “daylight” bulbs seem to offer good full-spectrum lighting.
Dennis
BallAquatics
ParticipantIn many aquarium books and magazines, you will see marbles being recommended as a breeding substrate for egg scattering fishes.
The catch with that is, CPD’s don’t spawn like typical Danios scattering eggs to and fro. That said, if you provide them with a bit of moss or a spawning mop, they probably won’t care if the substrate is made of marbles or not.
Give it a try and let us know how it works out!
Dennis
BallAquatics
ParticipantHi mostlydave, welcome to the forum!
I’ll have some in February, but they are too small to ship right now. I’m pretty close too… in Ohio.
Dennis
BallAquatics
ParticipantHi hmoobthor, welcome to the forum. Missed your post due to the Christmas weekend!
I’ve got lots of fry, but nothing that is shipping size. Let us know how your on-line CPD’s do for you.
Dennis
BallAquatics
ParticipantHi Ollie,
Congratulations on your spawning success, well done!
I like to feed enough that it tints the tank water green. I don’t think you can really over feed with green water/infusoria, but if you put too much in, it is sometimes hard to see the fry. I normally feed this until I can see by the bellies of the fry that they are eating larger foods.
Here’s wishing you and your family a very happy holiday season, and a safe and prosperous New Year.
Cheers,
DennisBallAquatics
ParticipantHi GOOSE_SP2.
IF you are going to have some live plants, and IF you only put 6 or 8 CPD’s in your 30 litre, I really wouldn’t worry about trying to mature the filter before hand.
The live plants will already have good bacteria growing on them, and they will also use the ammonia that the fish produce. Also with only 6 or 8 fish you will have a very small bio-load to begin with. You will want to monitor your water quality, but you would want to do that with any new set-up. If your water tests detect any ammonia or nitrite in the tank a water change will quickly take care of the problem.
I don’t know how many times I’ve set-up a perfectly clean, (as in not mature), 5.5 gallon breeder tanks for CPD’s with new filter, new substrate, and a good sized portion of moss without having any problems with water quality. I believe the live plants and small bio-load are the key points.
Dennis
-
AuthorPosts