ste12000
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ste12000
ParticipantHi Atlantis, thanks for that. Yes it will work. I have got as far as opening a photobucket account and will try and post some pics when i get time this afternoon. Cheers
ste12000
ParticipantRight Chris iv done it…i worked hard for a week and got my shed sorted into my fish house. Heres a video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGOxDN_1i1MCan anyone tell me how to post pictures on here?? I have taken pictures from start to finish and want to put them in a thread. Cheers
ste12000
ParticipantDont forget beach sand rocks and shells will raise your ph levels???
ste12000
ParticipantHows your tubs going now???
ste12000
ParticipantHi welcome to the forum.. I would certainly use a lid. I didnt always beleive it was neccesary until a male Ram cichlid decided to commit suicide about ten minutes after spawning with the female. I now keep all my breeding tanks covered when possible.
I would suggest lots and lots of plants covering all sides and back with a small area for viewing. I have 4 wild males and 6 tank bred females which are extremly shy and nervous when placed in any tank of less than 50litres. I keep them in a deep 140litre tank and they are not shy at all in this.
Here is a page about Myanmar(Burma) where the CPD’s come from…
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myanmar#Geography
They should be ok at these temperatures but to get them to spawn you may want to try raising the temp to the high 80’s (30c), i have had luck with this method but others on here dont really seem to use triggers and still breed them fine. Goodluck.ste12000
ParticipantWood can be collected from local forests and there are a lot of live foods you can collect/breed yourself.
I dont tend to buy cheap equipment because if it failed and i lost all my fish it would not be worth the small saving. Especially if you deal with rare or endangered fish.
Ebay is my favourite place to get a bargain, in the past i have bought a secondhand but not used, top of the range heater for £5 instead of the £22 my local shop is selling it for. I also get the majority of my food from there aswel as declorinator as i found a man selling in plain bottles,bulk deals on a top brand declorinator. Nearly half price savings….ste12000
ParticipantBit fiddly but the best way is to mix the liqui fry with a bit of tank water in a cup, use a syringe or pipete and mix it well, then just squirt it into your tank.
ste12000
ParticipantNice pics chris..HAPPY BIRTHDAY mate, enjoy the pub but dont forget your fish lol.
ste12000
ParticipantI have never used Microworms but they are a excellent food for fry.
I use baby brineshrimp from roughly 1-2weeks freeswimming and some of the dwarf cichlids can eat bbs from freeswimming. I get good growth rates on this and ZM fry foods.ste12000
ParticipantElly, with chris’s dodgy driving he would crack his fish car lol… Sorry chris couldnt resist :lol: :lol: :wink:
ste12000
ParticipantWell you are certainly not a beginner. You are breeding similar fish to me, check out my videos on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYxFcoSjkXI
I have yet to spawn the CPD’s iv tryed twice and not got them to lay, mine are too shy in the bare tank i usually use. I have bred and raised loads of small/tiny fry though. If you can succeed with the tiny pencilfish you can breed and raise nearly anything(bit off track but roughly how many pencilfish fry do you get from a pair, i use two females to 1 male and get roughly 60-80).
With my fry i use a tiny bit of liquifry, 2-4 drops in a 16litre tank for the first couple of days. I then swap to a tiny powdered food which is infusior sized until they can take newly hatched brine shrimp. Once on this your problems are over and they should grow rapidly.
Over the years i have obviously lost fry and encountered problems, this is a natural learning curve. I will list a few mistakes/problems i have had.
1-Overfeeding (fry can only eat a minute amount at a time. less than the smallest amount we can measure)
2- Underfeeding (tiny regular feeds are required) 10-20 feeds a day are ideal but no one i know has this much time hense if you work all day a fry can easily go 8-10 hours without food which is bad. Try liquifry mixed with water to slightly cloud the water while you are away.
3- Water changes.. When i first started i changed anything upto 50% daily as soon as the fry were freeswimming.I would lose 4-5 fish after every waterchange I now only start water changes after i start feeding baby brine shrimp, usually 1 week after freeswimming.And never a huge amount 10% daily is better than 50% in one go.
4- Moving/tiny changes in water. I never move fry. I use a bare tank for the parents to spawn then remove the adults. The fry are amazingly delicate and even the most careful people can damage/shock them. I also match the water temp to the nearest degree when changing water as i have lost fry due to inaccuracy in temp. Even 2-3o can be dangerousRight im knackered now so im going..Goodluck
:wink: [/list]
ste12000
ParticipantIdealy you should not move such small fry..the slightest shock can be enough to finish them off. Are you feeding before they use up the yolk sac? If you give me some background about your breeding history i can help you out. Are you new to breeding? or have you been doing it for years? Let me know and ill get back to you.
ste12000
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What can i say chris….unlucky mate.you will have to breed a sh!tload of CPD’s to pay for that lot.ste12000
ParticipantWell done matt, can you take any videos and post them on youtube for us all to see?? Iv got all my breeding ones on there. Check out my videos under ste12000.
ste12000
ParticipantSell the car ha ha.. Seriously though it does cost a lot. And that is before you include thing like airpumps,filters, heaters, thermometers the tanks themselves and all the other gubbins a serious fishkeeper needs. Keep saving chris and you will get there.
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