breeding info

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  • #10862
    wirralbull
    Participant

    could some one give me some details about breeding cpd’s i have got 7 and waiting to get more they are only juvenil at about 12-15mm. but their coloures are intensifying since i got them. i would like t know the basics of breeding ie how to sex them, what temp? water flow, light what size are they ready, what to feed to condition. what method to use. m:f ratio what to feed fry etc etc can you help?

    #15026
    BallAquatics
    Participant

    Hi wirralbull, welcome to the forum!

    There are probably as many ways to spawn these fish as there are hobbyists spawning them. Over the past several years this is the method I’ve been using…

    I put 2 males and 3 or 4 females into a 5.5 US gallon tank. The tank is unheated and has a small sponge filter with just a bit of water movement. I use a generous portion of Java or Christmas moss as a spawning site, the moss takes up around 1/4 of the tank volume and I push it down so it is in contact with the bottom of the tank. I have used bare bottom tanks and tanks with gravel substrate with equal success.

    I leave these adults in the breeding set-up for 7 days feeding live foods the entire week. At the end of the week, I remove the adults into another breeder set-up and wait for fry to appear. Depending on the age and condition of your brood stock you can expect anywhere from 15 to well over 100 fry in the next couple of weeks.

    I feed my fry green water and 5-50 micron sized Golden Pearls prepared food for the first week to 10 days. After that they move on to micro worms for another week to 10 days and finally on to baby brine shrimp. I normally leave the fry in the breeder set-up for the first 30 days doing daily water changes. At the end of 30 days I move groups of 65 fry into 20 US gallon long tanks for the grow-out process.

    With quality water and food your fry will be sexually mature at around 12 weeks of age. I like to keep my water parameters around neutral pH 6.8 – 7.2 and hardness around 8 dH, but I don’t fuss with it too much. These fish are very hardy and will spawn under a variety of conditions.

    Best of luck with your breeding project!

    Dennis

    #15029
    wirralbull
    Participant

    thanks for youre reply i have got 7 of these. only one has black in its tail at the moment, it is a light grey really but i put that down to young age. so i guess i only have one male. i keep them in an unheated tank 80 cm x 20cm x20 cm it has a sump filter with small black gravel bogwood and java moss temp is 23/24 in the day but goes down to 18/19 over night. is that too cool.

    #15030
    benjamincvo
    Participant

    Hey Ball Aquatics,

    I read in one of your past posts that you use pure spirulina to create your green water. This sounds like alot less hastle than leaving a bucket out in the sun (exspecially when you live in a climate like me and thats only possible for half the year). I was wondering if you still did that and where you got the Spirulina? I have found it for humans but the only stuff I have found that was created for fish that I can find is usually mixed in with brine shrimp or something. Is the stuff they sell at the nutrition stores the same? Also I was wondering about Daphnia; at what age do you thing that would be an option? I’m having a hard time finding anything to feed the fry, I dont know why but the only thing I’m really finding is Hikari First Bites and I’d Like to get them on live food as soon as possible as everyone seems to agree that makes them grow faster/ healthier.

    Thanks!

    Ben

    #15033
    BallAquatics
    Participant

    @benjamincvo wrote:

    I was wondering if you still did that and where you got the Spirulina? I have found it for humans but the only stuff I have found that was created for fish that I can find is usually mixed in with brine shrimp or something. Is the stuff they sell at the nutrition stores the same?

    I buy my spirulina from http://www.kensfish.com/product885.html. I don’t know if the stuff they sell at the nutrition stores is the same or not. I would think if it was “pure spirulina”, that it would be?

    @benjamincvo wrote:

    Also I was wondering about Daphnia; at what age do you thing that would be an option?

    I find that even adult CPD’s can struggle with fully grow daphnia. I stopped rasing daphnia in favor of moina, a smaller cousin to true daphnia, but even then I don’t feed these to CPD fry.

    Perhaps the easiest live food to culture for fry is micro worms. I’ve got an easy “how-to” over on the TFH forum… http://forums.tfhmagazine.com/viewtopic.php?f=145&t=27201

    You can pickup a nice starter culture on AquaBid for less than $10.00. My favorites prepared fry food is 5-50 micron size Golden Pearls, again available at http://www.kensfish.com/product864.html.

    The best of luck with your breeding project!

    Dennis

    #15034
    BallAquatics
    Participant

    @wirralbull wrote:

    …temp is 23/24 in the day but goes down to 18/19 over night. is that too cool.

    My CPD’s spawn the best for me when the tank temperatures are in the upper 60’s to low 70’s F, (20-22C).

    Dennis

    #15035
    benjamincvo
    Participant

    Thanks a lot Dennis! I appreciate the expert advice; I hope my fish come in soon!

    Ben

    #15036
    MChambers
    Participant

    @BallAquatics wrote:

    There are probably as many ways to spawn these fish as there are hobbyists spawning them. Over the past several years this is the method I’ve been using…

    I put 2 males and 3 or 4 females into a 5.5 US gallon tank. The tank is unheated and has a small sponge filter with just a bit of water movement. I use a generous portion of Java or Christmas moss as a spawning site, the moss takes up around 1/4 of the tank volume and I push it down so it is in contact with the bottom of the tank. I have used bare bottom tanks and tanks with gravel substrate with equal success.

    I leave these adults in the breeding set-up for 7 days feeding live foods the entire week. At the end of the week, I remove the adults into another breeder set-up and wait for fry to appear. Depending on the age and condition of your brood stock you can expect anywhere from 15 to well over 100 fry in the next couple of weeks.

    I feed my fry green water and 5-50 micron sized Golden Pearls prepared food for the first week to 10 days. After that they move on to micro worms for another week to 10 days and finally on to baby brine shrimp. I normally leave the fry in the breeder set-up for the first 30 days doing daily water changes. At the end of 30 days I move groups of 65 fry into 20 US gallon long tanks for the grow-out process.

    With quality water and food your fry will be sexually mature at around 12 weeks of age. I like to keep my water parameters around neutral pH 6.8 – 7.2 and hardness around 8 dH, but I don’t fuss with it too much. These fish are very hardy and will spawn under a variety of conditions.

    I use essentially this method. I’ll transfer 5 or 6 fish into a tank with lots of moss and other plants (and often red cherry shrimp, BTW) and transfer them out up to a week later. I don’t necessarily feed them live food, however, which may explain why I don’t end up with as many babies as Dennis.

    After the adults are removed, babies appear a few days later. Be patient.

    Like Dennis, I feed them infusoria, microworms, and the smallest size of Golden Pearls. After a couple of months, the babies are big enough to avoid being eaten by adults, and I transfer them to another tank and start the process over.

    #15043
    MChambers
    Participant

    Did this breeding again, with 5-6 adults in a 5 gallon, and had results more like those of Dennis. Must have gotten 40 or so fry, which are now in a 15 gallon.

    #15076
    wirralbull
    Participant

    today i have seen fry in a tank that had my cds’ in. i have just put a trio in a breeding tank to try for more.

    #15098
    mostlydave
    Participant

    @BallAquatics wrote:

    Hi wirralbull, welcome to the forum!

    There are probably as many ways to spawn these fish as there are hobbyists spawning them. Over the past several years this is the method I’ve been using…

    I put 2 males and 3 or 4 females into a 5.5 US gallon tank. The tank is unheated and has a small sponge filter with just a bit of water movement. I use a generous portion of Java or Christmas moss as a spawning site, the moss takes up around 1/4 of the tank volume and I push it down so it is in contact with the bottom of the tank. I have used bare bottom tanks and tanks with gravel substrate with equal success.

    I leave these adults in the breeding set-up for 7 days feeding live foods the entire week. At the end of the week, I remove the adults into another breeder set-up and wait for fry to appear. Depending on the age and condition of your brood stock you can expect anywhere from 15 to well over 100 fry in the next couple of weeks.

    I feed my fry green water and 5-50 micron sized Golden Pearls prepared food for the first week to 10 days. After that they move on to micro worms for another week to 10 days and finally on to baby brine shrimp. I normally leave the fry in the breeder set-up for the first 30 days doing daily water changes. At the end of 30 days I move groups of 65 fry into 20 US gallon long tanks for the grow-out process.

    With quality water and food your fry will be sexually mature at around 12 weeks of age. I like to keep my water parameters around neutral pH 6.8 – 7.2 and hardness around 8 dH, but I don’t fuss with it too much. These fish are very hardy and will spawn under a variety of conditions.

    Best of luck with your breeding project!

    Dennis

    Dennis,

    Would mind describing your 20 gallon grow out tanks? What do you use for filtration, lighting and canopies? Is there any significant advantage to using long tanks as opposed to regular? I have a large metal shelf and I’m thinking about picking up some 20 gallon tanks on sale to use as you described. Thanks for any tips you can give me!

    #15099
    BallAquatics
    Participant

    @mostlydave wrote:

    Would mind describing your 20 gallon grow out tanks? What do you use for filtration, lighting and canopies?

    They are very basic set-ups, with one or two sponge filters and some black gravel for substrate. I always have some live plants, vals, moss, crypts, etc. For lighting I use DIY canopies with daylight CF bulbs.

    Here’s a short video showing some fish in one of the grow-out tanks.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s7qOdGTKfYo&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

    Here’s a link on my DIY lighting.
    http://arizonainverts.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2113

    @mostlydave wrote:

    Is there any significant advantage to using long tanks as opposed to regular?

    There are several advantages to long tanks. They provide more surface area for a given volume of water. As CPD’s typically occupy the bottom area of the tank, width as opposed to vertical height is a good thing too. With the extra width, I think you can house more fish in the same volume of water without making them feel crowded.

    Dennis

    #15100
    mostlydave
    Participant

    Dennis,

    Thanks for all the great info! Here is a link to my breeding setup:
    http://www.celestialpearldanio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1167

    If all goes well I’d like to try to start selling some CPD to create a self funding hobby! My petco is currently having a 1$ per gallon sale so I’m going to pick up some new 20’s and maybe another 5 to use as another breeder.

    If the CPD breeding goes alright I want to try to breed my ember tetras, I currently have 6 and would like to try that next, but judging from all the research I’ve done it should be easier to breed the CPD!

    #15101
    BallAquatics
    Participant

    Best of luck with your project Dave! I’ll be watching your thread for updates. :D

    Dennis

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